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Mould problem in Calgary

GarthChapman

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I have a house in Calgary with a mould problem created this winter by poor ventilation and tenants` lifestyle generating lots of humidity. Tenants are now leaving and I have a big problem to fix. We need a good experienced Contractor to do the job right without breaking the bank.

House was built in late 1960`s and has aluminum windows. No exhaust fan in bathroom. Furnace is new but I suspect make-up air set-up may be deficient.

Can anyone point me to the right Contractor?
 

RebeccaBryan

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Hopefully someone points you to a good contractor.

I had a similar dilema last winter when the tenants did not have their heat turned on and were only using space heaters. I had to gut the bathroom around the shower, but there were signs of mould in other areas of the property as well, but I think I solved the problem with Microban and Javex. These however were very small areas of problem. Hopefully you don`t find too much of a disaster.
 

reiScout

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I work in the flood remediation and restoration industry and as a lead hand on the jobs I`m assigned, I can tell you that most of what needs to be done to officially remove potential `mold` contaminants does not come cheap. Mold remediation co`s make out like bandits when it comes to this stuff. The process to remove those potential `mold` contaminants costs less than 1/2 of what one of these companies would charge if you do it or manage it yourself.

Let me know if you are interested in this info and I`d be happy to write up the process for you (or the forum). If you do respond, I`ll need the room sizes that are affected as a starting point.

If you want a contractor to do it, call up the fire and flood restoration companies for your estimates.

Good luck

PS: If you need an official document to show that all mold has been removed (perhaps for resale purposes) you will need to get one of these companies to do the work.
 

dplummer

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Just remember that Bleach does NOT kill mould. Bleach takes the colour out of the mould it doesn`t kill the spores. Look for the source. High humidity. moisture intrusion into the building envelope. CMHC has a great site on mould. Doug
 

reiScout

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Actually the product `Benefect` is a preferred one amoung many of the companies that specialize in mold remediation. Vinegar blends and solutions are good for cleaning up windows and other small areas only but doesn`t do anything to prevent mold from returning. Benefect is an eco friendly product (trainers in the industry drink it in front of students to illustrate how harmless it is), its` very efficient at neutralizing and preventing mold from coming back (first step is to keep the area dry once you`ve gotten the humidity levels below 8/9) and it even has a nice scent to it. (smells like some sort of sterilizer).

Not sure where to buy it but a good place to start would be to ask an insurance restoration company like Winmar or Paul Davies Systems (both of which are national firms and should know where the product is available to the public). I know Home Depot has their own product for this but it may not be as good as the Benefect.

Also, you`ll want to make sure you use it at the right time (with air movers and dehumidifiers in place and running) during the process of restoring the rooms to a healthy atmosphere.

Hope that helps.
 

Marek2086

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QUOTE (reiScout @ Feb 2 2008, 05:21 PM) Let me know if you are interested in this info and I`d be happy to write up the process for you (or the forum). If you do respond, I`ll need the room sizes that are affected as a starting point.

Barnie,

I would love to know the proper procedures for mold removal. Although my minor mold issues are fixed I think it may help many of us as we invest in older properties. It would also give us an Idea of the amount of work involved when looking to buy a property with some mold issues.

Please share the process

lets assume there is mold in a 500sq ft basement (1 bed) apartment in a (triplex). A 70 sqft bathroom affected as well as a 70 sqft kitchen area on the opposite side of the unit. Most mold near the baseboards on the walls and in behind the walls.

Thank you in advance

marek
 

RebeccaBryan

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QUOTE (dplummer @ Feb 2 2008, 08:10 AM) Just remember that Bleach does NOT kill mould. Bleach takes the colour out of the mould it doesn`t kill the spores. Look for the source. High humidity. moisture intrusion into the building envelope. CMHC has a great site on mould. Doug


Microban does the job though and bleach helps to take the color out.
 

reiScout

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QUOTE (marek5 @ Feb 3 2008, 08:11 AM) Barnie,

I would love to know the proper procedures for mold removal. Although my minor mold issues are fixed I think it may help many of us as we invest in older properties. It would also give us an Idea of the amount of work involved when looking to buy a property with some mold issues.

Please share the process

lets assume there is mold in a 500sq ft basement (1 bed) apartment in a (triplex). A 70 sqft bathroom affected as well as a 70 sqft kitchen area on the opposite side of the unit. Most mold near the baseboards on the walls and in behind the walls.

Thank you in advance

marek

The following seems quite drastic but the steps can be completed by anyone with a good arm and who isn`t afraid of breaking a sweat (or who can manage a couple of labourers).

------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Make sure the source of the mold has been corrected before going ahead with the steps below.

Check humidity levels with a meter readings (check regulations for max allowed) check the CMHC website for more info on how to do this.

Identify the area(s) that need to be repaired. If stains return after trying to wipe them clean, then you need to follow these steps.

Check humidity levels in walls to determine / confirm high humidity levels (which is what mold thrives on). Again, check CMHC site for more info.

If levels of humidity are too high (in Ontario levels of humidity higher than 8/9 % are considered to feeding grounds for mold), the walls will need to be opened up (in basement floods we cut and discard bottom 25" of walls using a chalk line and a `saws-all` type of tool). If you are addressing sporadic areas, then only those areas need to be opened. Look and/or feel insulation to determine if it`s wet. If so, cut out the insulation and discard it. Don`t replace anything until you`ve completed the following.

Cut and remove all drywall and wet insulation, bag and remove from site. If any trim or doors made of MDF are wet (mostly from floods) they`ll need to be replaced. If it`s wood, it can be dried and reused.

Clean up mess with broom and vacuum making sure you get all the bits and pieces (of drywall and debris) between studs.

For each room, you`ll need to rent a dehumidifier (dehum) and air movers (large floor fans) for two days. Ideally you`ll want three air movers and one dehumidifier for each affected room. Four air movers for large rooms. If it`s a small room one air mover will do.

Set up the equipment as follows:

Position furniture in center of room or remove it all to allow air to circulate. Place an air mover at each of the outside corners furthest from door and position them so the air circulates in the same direction around the room. They should be pointed in a diagonal position to the wall with air `gliding` against the wall it is pointed at. If room is empty, place the dehum in the center of the room. If not, place it right in the doorway between each door jamb or if not possible, then right in front of the door inside the room (with the door open). Dehums are equipped with a long hose which serves to carry the water the machine picks up to a nearby sink or the drain. Make sure you position the end of this hose accordingly. Do this in all affected areas.
In small rooms, like a bathroom or storage room, position fan or air mover less than 2 feet from wall and point it directly to the wall. This will force the air to hit the wall and circulate back through the doorway. Position the dehum at the door where it will collect the humidity as the air flows by it.

NOTE: If you are addressing small areas (say... less than the size of 3 sheets of drywall, you may not need the dehum. Set up the fans and check for humidity again the next day. If it has dropped, check it again the next day. It should be dry enough the next day though. Smaller areas tend to dry faster as there isn`t much humidity to dry up.

IMPORTANT

SPRAY THE BENEFECT AFTER ALL EQUIPMENT HAS BEEN SET UP AND YOU ARE READY TO LEAVE THE ROOM. While the scent of the Benefect isn`t bad, some customers have complained about it. Spray all areas that have been opened
generously
with Benefect (or Microban) using a spray type of canister or manual pump that you pour liquid into
.

Once the place has dried up, return the equipment and start patching/repairs. Do NOT reuse any of the drywall or insulation as it is contaminated!

I hope this helps.
 

Marek2086

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Thank you

I appreciate your prompt response. I will be printing this out for when I need it!

thanks again
 

Brianrpaul98

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I would also suggest using an ozone machine which will eliminate odors, bacteria or virses by oxidizing the source. The key is getting rid of the source ie. mildew, etc as mentioned in previous posts. The great thing about using an ozone machine is that the ozone will penetrate into cracks, carpets, furniture etc.

I own an ozone machine and if you are interested just give me a call at 403 289 2133

Regards,
Brian
 

GarthChapman

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Thanks for all the great advice. We opened the walls and found it was not as bad as we had anticipated. The Health Board Inspector gave us the all-clear and it will be all back together again soon.
Cheers,
 

RedlineBrett

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QUOTE (GarthChapman @ Feb 24 2008, 06:49 PM) Thanks for all the great advice. We opened the walls and found it was not as bad as we had anticipated. The Health Board Inspector gave us the all-clear and it will be all back together again soon.
Cheers,

Good to hear Garth - nice when things aren`t as bad as expected
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